NO
 
INBREEDING!

The serious hobby breeder is your best chance of acquiring a puppy that has had the proper care put into its breeding and rearing. “Backyard breeders” are frequently well-intentioned perfectly nice people who love their dogs, but in many cases know little about health problems, proper structure and temperament, or health histories in their lines. They sometimes do not have the health clearances that responsible, knowledgeable breeders would consider the bare minimum requirements for contemplating a breeding. Pet shops are absolutely the worst choice; frequently the puppies there are the product of puppy mills, suffer from numerous health problems, and have been separated from the litter at too young an age. We believe the best pets come from litters bred by people who are actively involved with the sport of dogs in some way; ideally the breeder will belong to the Golden Retriever Club of America and a local Golden Retriever breed club (where one exists.) They should be involved in competing with their dogs in some way - in the show or obedience ring, at hunting tests or field trials, or in some combination of endeavors. These people are not breeding in a vacuum. They are exposed to competition to enable them to see how their dogs compare to others, and have opportunities to learn about the many factors that go into trying to improve the breed. While some of our dogs do go into competition or into a breeding program, most of the puppies produced live their lives as someone’s pet. You deserve a pet that is a result of a litter carefully planned for the proper structure, the proper temperament, and with attention paid to health considerations.

Things to look for:

• A responsible breeder will probably, as mentioned above, be involved with a dog club and involved in some area of endeavor with their dogs. The breeder competing in organized activities is known by others and will have a reputation to uphold.

   

• Ask for written proof of hip, heart, and eye clearances. The breeder should be able to answer questions about other health concerns in the breed.

• Paperwork - The breeder should provide you with some sort of written contract and health guarantee; a four or five generation pedigree for the puppies; and a “blue slip” to apply for registration of your puppy with the American Kennel Club. You should be provided a record of vaccinations done, any dewormings done, and feeding instructions for the puppy.

• Don’t be surprised if you are asked to sign a spay/neuter contract, or if your pet puppy is sold on Limited Registration. A breeder who is concerned about taking a continuing responsibility for what they produce is a good sign! A dedicated breeder may require that the dog be returned to them if you ever cannot keep it for any reason.

• Look for a breeder who will provide you with information on raising your puppy, housetraining, etc. and who will be available to patiently answer any questions you have. The relationship between a new puppy owner and breeder is a very important one; a good breeder can serve as a valuable resource for assistance with any problems or questions you encounter.

• Expect to be asked lots of questions! You may be asked if you have had dogs in the past, what happened to them, whether you have a fenced yard, whether the dog will be allowed to live in the house and be a member of the family, and anything else a concerned breeder can think of to help them find the best homes for their puppies and to ensure that you know what you’re getting into by acquiring a dog.

• The puppies should be clean, and should seem outgoing, bright and inquisitive. If you take one by itself to a new area of the house or yard it may appear uncertain, but should recover quickly and be interested in its environment and respond to you. Eyes, nose, and ears should appear clean and free of discharge. If the puppies appear fearful, or the mother shies away or appears aggressive, avoid this litter. The breeder should be able to tell you what they’ve done as far as “socialization.” Puppies need lots of contact with people during their first few weeks.

• Be cautious of ads in the newspaper offering puppies at exceptionally low prices. A well bred litter, bred to a good male with a substantial stud fee, and cared for properly through pregnancy and 7 to 8 weeks of puppyhood, is not a cheap proposition. A responsible breeder has a sizeable investment in a litter, and in some ways, the old adage “you get what you pay for” holds true. When you consider the number of years you hope to have this dog, and the emotional and financial investment you will have in it, the initial price of the puppy is a small consideration. Beware of ads touting puppies from “championship bloodlines” and with “all shots.” Champions sprinkled through the fourth or fifth generation are not an indication of quality, or of a careful breeding program. Not all parents of good litters will be finished champions; in some cases neither parent will be a champion. (However, if three of the four grandparents are, and there are multiple champions and obedience or hunting titles in the first three generations, chances are you have a litter of some potential.) It is not possible for a puppy to have “all shots” when it goes to its new home, unless it is at least four months old. Puppies need shots every two or three weeks from 6-7 weeks to about 14-16 weeks, with perhaps another parvovirus booster at five or six months. Whether a litter has been “wormed” or not is also not an indication of quality. Some breeders will worm prophylactically, others prefer to have periodic stool samples checked and only use medications if parasites are present.

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